In "old" Japan

From Nagoya, we visited Magome, by taking the train to Nakatsugawa, and then a bus to Magome. It is a well-travelled tourist route . But first Susan introduced me to the specialty shop near the station which makes mochi filled with chestnut paste. It was ever so tasty...and expensive...so we bought and ate sparingly!

Magome consists of one main street that climbs ever upward to the old Nakasendo post road. Shops and inns and eating houses line this street. As we emerged from the town, a beautiful vista of mountains appeared before us, across green fields. a refreshing breeze sped us on our way.
We plunged into the forest and began the hilly 3 hour walk to Tsumago. We were thankful that 2 energetic japanese ladies did not mind us tagging along behind them to make sure we were on the right path, as the trail crossed the vehicular road several times.

On the trail, we were welcomed by an old man who seemed like he had been welcoming travellers for centuries. Green tea and Japanese preserved plums refreshed us, and whetted our appetite for lunch.
Our walking companions showed us a nice picnic area by the waterfall to have our bento lunch which we had carried with us all the way from Nagoya station! They continued on their way to Tsumago and beyond, to Nagiso station.
It was good to know that the end of the road was not too far away after lunch. It had started to get hot, and we were glad to be in the forest much of the way.
Tsumago seemed larger than Magome, but since we had a train to catch, we did not tarry long in the shops and Museum.
Alighting from the bus at Nagiso station, we found our walking friends who warned us that we were in for rain the next day. We were happy to have had calm weather and a lovely walk.
Sure enough, rain came down the next day and washed out most of our visit to Takayama.
The train ride from Nagoya took 2 hours, but near our destination there was some dramatic gorge scenary.
There were many tourists like us here, and everyone was just about walking up and down all the streets of Takayama which are lined with well-preserved houses of old Japan. Of course we had to try the Hida beef and the grilled rice balls with soya sauce.
We returned to Nagoya in the afternoon. Susan and Choo bought delicious fare from the Takashimaya food hall for our last meal together in Japan.

On the Tateyama-Kurobe alpine route

We left our luggage at Toyoko Inn in Matsumoto and headed for Shinano-omachi station, using our railpass. From here we bought a ticket for the whole alpine route to Toyama. This covered various modes of transport, like a bus to Ogizawa, a trolley ride to the Kurobe Dam, 2 cable cars to Daikanbo, and then a bus ride in a tunnel dug through Tateyama, the highest mountain in the region.

All was achieved with admirable Japanese efficiency. We arrived in Murodo in good time, but the expected guide from the ryokan did not turn up. The clouds descended just as we set out in search of the lodging, and we had to find our way with the help of a rough "map". The Raichoso Ryokan eventually loomed out of the mists. Little did we know that we were walking on a high ridge to get there.

We had to get used to getting out of our boots at the reception area, wear the "lobby slippers" to our room, and take them off while we were in the room. When we wanted to go to the toilet, we had to change to "toilet slippers". Sometimes, I got them jumbled!

It was only 3pm in the afternoon when we got settled, but we spent all our energies drinking tea to keep warm in the tatami room. The fog outside did not inspire us to go roaming. Dinner time came around soon enough, and we were treated to a delicious set meal. Susan and Choo tried out the boiling hot onsen, but I was content to get under the futon and drift off to sleep.

We were up early with the other walkers the next morning. some were taking a long-distance trek, others just going out for the day. We walked a bit further down into the valley.Susan and Choo continued down to the hot springs. The long climb out of there just about winded them. From the Ryokan, we still had to bagpack back to the bus station.

The bus, cable car and train ride brought us to Toyama, where we had lunch, and then pushed on to Kanazawa because there was no room at the inns in Toyama.

Kanazawa was quite a lovely place. I took a walk to the Castle Park. The next day we visited the famed Kenrokkuu-En gardens, and had lunch at the Omicho market, a fascinating warren of stalls selling produce and other dry goods.

We pressed on to Gifu Hashima, a commuter town near Nagoya. The Toyoko Inn is just 5 mins walk from the station. Although it is right next to the railway lines, the double-glazed windows are absolutely effective in ensuring a good night's sleep.

All this time we had been living out of our bag packs, our luggage being still in Matsumoto. Thanks to Japan's efficient baggage courier service, Yamato, we were united with our suitcases in Gifu Hashima. A hot shower and clean clothes never felt better!

The Food Hall in Nagoya JR Station's Takashimaya department store was enormous, and we had a feast on cooked food bought here at bargain prices.

Kamikochi

Kamikochi in the Japan Alps National Park was an easy train and bus ride away from Japan. On the way, the scenary was dramatic. At the park we crossed the much-photographed Kappa-bashi and walked for an hour or so towards Myojin-bashi. It was a really pleasant walk in the forest, on board walks and steps cut into the slopes. Near Myojin-bashi was a picturesque old inn selling grilled char and oden.

We returned to the Park Headquarters for a soba lunch in a very busy but efficient restaurant. we then heade west of Kappa-bashi, past the "Weston relief" ( a memorial to the explorer Walter Weston), and headed towards Taisho-ike. We did not quite get there because we had to catch the bus back to Matsumoto.

Return to Matsumoto

My friend Susan convinced me that travelling in Japan was a breeze with a Japan Rail Pass and Toyoko Inn membership.

After unsuccessfully trying to get on a walking tour to the Dolomites in September 2009, and thanks to a half-price offer on Singapore Airlines, I decided to tag along with Susan and Choo, quite disrupting their planned itinerary in the process!

Arriving at Nagoya's Chubu airport, I encountered the first of many efficient and polite service personnel working in the vast rail network in this country. A quiet express train whisked me to the centre of Nagoya, where I dove into the maelstrom that is Nagoya JR Station.

Armed with a duly endorsed JR Pass, I was ready to criss-cross the country for a week. First I had to find the correct platform for the train to Matsumoto where I was to meet Susan and Choo. They had flown into Tokyo. I had already been coached by Susan to reserve a seat on the train even though I could just jump on any train with my Pass.

Rolling through the Kiso Valley and then into the Japan alps, I arrived in Matsumoto, to be surprised by the many new buildings in the vicinity of the Station. I also discovered that a music festival directed by Seiji Ozawa was taking place. Too late! All the tickets had long been sold out.

Being a member of Toyoko Inn has its privileges: one can have early check-in and special daily discounts. This had a significant effect on our accommodation budget. We subsequently stayed in Toyoko Inns in Kanazawa and Gifu. We came to expect rooms comfortably catering to all the needs of travellers. Lonely Planet seems to think that the rooms are small, but I felt very comfortable in all of them.

From Matsumoto, we visited Kamikochi, then headed for the "Alpine Route" to Murodo where we stayed in a ryokan high up in the mountains. We descended to the coast the next day and spent 2 nights in Kanazawa. Gifu Hashima was our HQ for the rest of the week. From here we visited Magome-Tsumago and Takayama.

The week's travel was just perfect, and it was such a pleasant surprise to discover myriad walking tracks in Japan. I will be back...