We left our luggage at Toyoko Inn in Matsumoto and headed for Shinano-omachi station, using our railpass. From here we bought a ticket for the whole alpine route to Toyama. This covered various modes of transport, like a bus to Ogizawa, a trolley ride to the Kurobe Dam, 2 cable cars to Daikanbo, and then a bus ride in a tunnel dug through Tateyama, the highest mountain in the region.
All was achieved with admirable Japanese efficiency. We arrived in Murodo in good time, but the expected guide from the ryokan did not turn up. The clouds descended just as we set out in search of the lodging, and we had to find our way with the help of a rough "map". The Raichoso Ryokan eventually loomed out of the mists. Little did we know that we were walking on a high ridge to get there.We had to get used to getting out of our boots at the reception area, wear the "lobby slippers" to our room, and take them off while we were in the room. When we wanted to go to the toilet, we had to change to "toilet slippers". Sometimes, I got them jumbled!
It was only 3pm in the afternoon when we got settled, but we spent all our energies drinking tea to keep warm in the tatami room. The fog outside did not inspire us to go roaming. Dinner time came around soon enough, and we were treated to a delicious set meal. Susan and Choo tried out the boiling hot onsen, but I was content to get under the futon and drift off to sleep.
We were up early with the other walkers the next morning. some were taking a long-distance trek, others just going out for the day. We walked a bit further down into the valley.Susan and Choo continued down to the hot springs. The long climb out of there just about winded them. From the Ryokan, we still had to bagpack back to the bus station.
The bus, cable car and train ride brought us to Toyama, where we had lunch, and then pushed on to Kanazawa because there was no room at the inns in Toyama.
Kanazawa was quite a lovely place. I took a walk to the Castle Park. The next day we visited the famed Kenrokkuu-En gardens, and had lunch at the Omicho market, a fascinating warren of stalls selling produce and other dry goods.We pressed on to Gifu Hashima, a commuter town near Nagoya. The Toyoko Inn is just 5 mins walk from the station. Although it is right next to the railway lines, the double-glazed windows are absolutely effective in ensuring a good night's sleep.
All this time we had been living out of our bag packs, our luggage being still in Matsumoto. Thanks to Japan's efficient baggage courier service, Yamato, we were united with our suitcases in Gifu Hashima. A hot shower and clean clothes never felt better!
The Food Hall in Nagoya JR Station's Takashimaya department store was enormous, and we had a feast on cooked food bought here at bargain prices.
